wandering

This morning I took a long walk up to Recoleta. It is the 'posh' neighborhood of Buenos Aires, and home to the famous Recoleta Cemetery. The one which contains the remains of Eva Peron, among other political greats. Don't worry, I restrained myself from breaking out into song.

Cemeteries in Latin America are more like little towns of the dead. Because all of the graves are actually little houses or crypts above ground, rather than IN the ground. So I wandered through the alleys of this city of the dead, with death and dying on my mind. I've had a little previous experience with it, so it's not a new topic to ruminate on. I am also reading a book about the Plague, so more encouragement to think about death. My therapist asked me once if, now that I am post-Mormon, I had different, more troubling views of my best friend's death (which happened during my college, Mormon years). The Mormon religion is pretty comforting when it comes to death, it helps a lot of people cope. Because the Mormons are pretty confident they know what happens when we die. At the time, I thought I knew that Katie was in a good place. That didn't make it easy to have to unexpectedly say goodbye, without having someone to say goodbye to. No, nothing about that time was easy. Now that I have rejected those beliefs, I have had to question a lot of perceptions of life, reality, death, sin, etc. I don't know what happens when we die, but I do know Katie was a good person. So I'm not worried.

In some ways I find the contemplation of death inspiring. Thanks to the entrance of death in my life I frequently resolve anew to make the most of every day of my life. Because, I have personally experienced, you never know when it will end. That's part of what got me down here, on this trip. I had my doubts, I thought about Katie, I bought my plane ticket.

There were so many angels in this cemetery. A common theme, of course, in a graveyard. I think they are so beautiful, and what a beautiful human invention. Who was the first person who imagined a pair of wings on a human's body? Something so human, and so not?

I loved all the cemetery cats. Ragged creatures curled up amongst the tombs and squares of grass. Slinking through this town of the dead.

Speaking of burial practices: when I die I want a green funeral. No coffin, no embalming, no burning. Just put my body into the earth to decompose. I wish I could be buried in some national park, but I am sure that is illegal. Maybe by the time I die I'll have a friend who has a farm and I can be buried there. Not that I am averse to cemeteries, I just want to be someplace green and growing, where I can be part of the earth.

Actually, my death may be imminent. I noticed a LOT of mosquitos out today. In the middle of the day. It is mosquitos who are out biting during the day that carry dengue fever, AKA Black Vomit Disease. It is a disgusting and powerful virus, with no preventative measures possible. And indeed, when I was leaving the cemetery I spied a poster warning against standing water, because 'tis the season for dengue fever. I thought I was finally free of mosquitos, as I am now in a city. But I have 7 bites from today. Holy hell, how irritating.

This asian girl came up to me in the cemetery. I thought she was asking for me to take a picture of her. Claro que si! But then she backed up, putting the camera to her eye, and I realized that she had told me she thought I was very pretty and could she take a picture of me? Well, I thought that was a little odd, but I was very flattered. And then I imagined this girl traveling the world, telling people they are beautiful, and then framing them forever in her camera. And I thought, that is completely delightful. We should all tell each other so easily how pretty we are.

I wandered around the Recoleta feria, or market. I love a good market, and this one had some beautiful pieces. I found a cheap toe ring, finally. The Caribbean took mine on the first day of this trip, and I have been looking for a replacement ever since.

This city obviously likes two things: books and ice cream. They are everywhere. I approve.

Also saw some tango in the park. Check. So sexy.